The Greek islands make one jealous

Friday, September 12, 2008
Mehmet Ali Birand

My wife Cemre and I joined a tour to the Greek Island and sailed from Bodrum to the Kekova Bay in the Mediterranean. I have not gone to the Greek Islands for about two years. I was appalled this time. First we stopped by at the Simi and then Meis islands. These are the two islands right before our nose. It is easy to see how they got developed and rich.

Striking transformation

I never forget, not long ago, just about 20 years ago, Simi was in bad shape. A young man was running over the dock where we anchored the boats and invited us to his restaurant at that time. It was a small neglected island on which more than half of the houses were a wreck. There were not many shopping centers, except a couple of grocery stores. Locals had offered us a house with a breath-taking view for $50,000, but we teased them.

During the years, we visited Simi many very often and witnessed how it turned out to be a rich and developed island. Today, the young man helping us to anchor in the past is about 45-year-old. He has three big restaurants, innumerable number of houses and stores on the island. He is famous Manos. And the houses that we turned up our noses at are restored and painted today. They are sold for $500,000 to $750,000. The Simi Island has turned into a vivid shopping center with its very clean streets and its port filled with Turkish boats. It is difficult not to be jealous of the Simi. The island took a giant step owing to the European Union and Turkish tourists.

The Meis Island is more striking. Populated with 300 to 400 people, the island is very close to Kaş. Meis in the past was a rich island earning income from fishing. But locals emigrated due to wars, unemployment and young ones moved to Australia. But now they are coming back to restore their houses. A tiny cute island is Meis.The port is crowded with restaurants that are so close to the boats. Meis is so very close to Kaş that you feel a heart ache. But then you think again and be thankful that the Meis Island remained in the Greek territory because it could have been neglected if it were belong to us. No litters in streets, no loud music in Meis. What smells here is not kebab but oregano.Simi has the Manos restaurant and Leros has Milos owned by Taki.

Leros is one of the 12 islands in the west of the Bodrum Peninsula. In World War II, it was an Italian sea base. There are tall buildings unfit for a tiny island. But the beaches in Leros or the castle are famous as well as the Milos restaurant. Customers from Turkey and other islands come to this purple painted restaurant located at the St. Marina cove, just to have macaroni with lobster. And the windmill right next to the premises and in the sea is just a decor.

Rocks are tourist paradise

In the same week, I visited the Astipalia-Amorgos-Naksos-Mikonos quartet. They are usually rocky and empty, no greens. Some have beautiful coves and beaches of course, but in general I am talking about a few islands with no natural appeal. But on the other hand, coastal lines are built so beautifully. Mikonos is an exception. It doesn't look like any of the others. It has something unique. The island got so famous that people are flocking into Mikonos just being able to say "Yes, I've been there." Extremely rich and top quality stores, chic restaurants and narrow streets make Mikonos a beautiful island all and all. But there are very few beaches. Mikonos becomes alive in the night. Naksos is the most beautiful in the Astipalia-Amorgos-Naksos trio. In the past, Naksos was dukedom and the capital of the Kiklad islands. The west coast is famous for long beaches. Restaurants behind the beaches are called "tavern" but they are not like what we have in Turkey, no one is breaking plates just for nothing. Whatever you remember about sea you can have it here, either cooked or raw. For instance, sea urchins… eat it with small spoons. It tastes strange but edible. Sometimes I think that why we don't have the same food although we share a common sea with Greeks. For instance, macaroni with lobster is served in almost all restaurants, so is octopus meatball. Port of Naksos is filled with foreign yachts. From Naksos the islands Paros, Anti-paros and Mikonos are not far away. Olive grove and almond trees cover this majestic yet lonely island. The port is illuminated in the night. People are having dinner under trees in narrow streets. Dinner costs 20 to 30 euros at most. Amorgos and Astiphalia were one-night stops for us. Both have high old castles and cities. Ports are alive and kicking. In restaurants, tablecloths are blue and white.

Although these islands are dry and rocky, all are open to tourists! Ferries are working among the islands and to/from Pire. Services in weekdays are also available. The biggest success of Greeks is that they know how to turn something small into a big opportunity and to market it. They have these restaurants having similar architectural structure, delicious food, clean streets. Islands are created all over again.

As I visited the Greek islands, I realized that the Turkish coastal line is more beautiful yet neglected and ugly in this sense.

http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/editorial.php?ed=mehmet_ali_birand

O κος Birad θα έλεγα ότι αδικεί τα Ελληνικά νησιά συγκρίνωντάς τα με τα Μικρασιατικά παράλια αφού τα νησιά μεταξύ τους έχουν αρκετές διαφορές πόσο μάλλον με μια μεγάλη ακτογραμμή μιας χώρας. Κύριο πρόβλημα των νησιών είναι το νερό και το ακτοπλοικό κυρίως τον Χειμώνα. Μπορεί να απορεί για την διαφορετική κουζίνα που έχουν τα νησιά από την Τουρκία αλλά αν σκεφτεί κάποιος ότι οι κάτοικοί τους είναι άρρηκτα συνδεδεμένοι με την θάλασσα και το Αιγαίο θα καταλάβει γιατί δεν συνηθίζουν να τρώνε «κεμπαπ» αλλά ...αχινούς! Παρ όλα τα προβλήματα και τα μειονεκτήματα των νησιών κι ανεξαρτήτου κάλλους είναι μοναδικής ομορφιάς το καθένα ξεχωριστά...


Ο ίδιος έχει γράψει εκτός των άλλων και άρθρο σχετικά με τα «Σεπτεμβριανά»:
The shame of Sept. 6-7 is always with us